Spitfire engine rebuild, part 2 - Crankshaft

Really not an expert an this but after some mistakes 10 years ago I am really attempting to do this "by the book", see it's on the table :-)
Obsessive compulsive will be the key !

Started by putting the block on the engine stand and having all the parts set on the table.
We used the best crankshaft, it was ground 20 under.

First step was to install the lower part of the bearing. Hole needs to align withe the one in the block for oil supply. Using assembly lube on all bearings. Bearings are at 20 over to match the crankshaft.

Then gently dropped the crank in there, put plastigage.
Install the other part of the bearing and housing and torque (65)

Note that the bearing caps can't be mixed up and have directions. There were machined in place so that everything aligns perfectly.

Checking the plastigage we are at 0.0015 sounds good. Had a bit of a scare as it seemed very narrow but once I wiped the assembly oil I could see it was wider.

Then onto thrust washers, these fell of the first engine I disassembled and I had no idea where the came from or the purpose. They are here to control the lateral position of the crank.

You can buy them oversize as I had no idea I bought std, +5 and +10.

See what these look like.

Checking the float here. You lever left and right and see how much it moves

 Was at 8 tho. wich is the end limit so in the end I put the +5 on the outside and the std on the inside, bringing me to 5 tho. of float.

Oiled the cylinders and onto next step !

Spitfire gearbox prep

Started to prepare the transmission while the engine was being machined.

Peeked inside and it doesn't look too bad. Apart from quite a bit of metal particles collected on the magnet. Will probably need to revisit later for synchros...

Wanted to replace the seals so that at least it doesn't leak on the garage floor. Had to remove the flange for the rear one. Had to use the usual amount of penetrating oil + heat + impact gun.

See my "red neck" technique for locking the flange into place. 

Once removed, pulled out the old seal and pushed new one in with a large socket.

I was surprised to hear there is no seal at the front on these ones, just a screw type mechanism to push the oil away. So don't park your car nose down on a hill !

Used the clutch fork that had the least amount of play and fitted the new clutch bearing.

My technique for removing the old bearing. It's simply pushed in.

Final result, I have to admit the biggest pain was cleaning and painting the bellhousing. 30 years of oil took a while to clean. Hence my obsession with seals, the new one has to remain clean !

Spitfire engine rebuild, part 1 - Machining

Engine had been completely disassembled to realize that the bore measures at around 40 sometimes 60 over. So I decided to use the block from the parts car that was within spec (2.900).

My parts car came with a rebuilt head but it turns out that one is from a later car with the air injection for pollution and different compression so we'll just use it for some of the parts.

Still with the plan to do everything myself I ordered all the parts and will be doing the assembly but there are some things you just can't do yourself such as machining the block.

Went for the big package and it's a lot of machine work (so it's expensive... this one is for my wife :-) ). Doesn't really make sense to spend so much time and money then skip one of the items.
- Block deck + bore at 20 over
- Grind crankshaft at 20 under
- Recondition rods
- Install cam bearings
- Align hone block
- Deck head + Install guides and hardened seats on exhaust valves
- A few helicoils for the pan
- Grind the flywheel

Check out that photo lots of shiny parts, so exciting !
Starting to fall in love with my engine :-) We'll see if that lasts the week end after assembly.

Steering wheel

After yesterday's post I had to show this for the final result and motivation !

Spitfire steering column and bushes

Not been posting every day but I have been busy !

The steering wheel is back on the car and it should be not much appart from cleaning and painting... normally...
Well, i had my usual lot of troubles :
- the bushes were really hard to get out. Drilled the plastic part but still required too much banging to get out. Had to use a large metal bar with the right size socket. Next time i wont bother and just push them inside, cant hurt.
- in fact the column was bent. Had to mix and match with the parts car. This parts car has been a life savior really.
- tightened everything to the right torque, important so the steering column can collapse properly in case of an accident.

Triumph spitfire heater box

The spitfire heater presents a few fun challenges :
1. Some of the parts have become unavailable or extremely pricey.
2. From its exposure to the elements and potentials it has a lot of rust after 40+ years
3. It is in an awkard location and many have to come out to grant access so you want this done right not to have to revisit.

Let's look at this point by point :

1. Luckily i had 3 used boxes and had to mix and match parts to make a good one. Only one of the 3 heater cores had no leak (tested submerged in water with air pressure). One of the 3 had a stronger and nicer working flap system. Had had a good motor.

2. Cleaned the rust and sprayed gloss black. Now as i said it is exposed to the elements so you want to try to get the seals replaced but they aren't made anymore. Escpecially the one that fit around the entry / exit hose. The old ones have become hard and brittle and resemble cookies that have forgotten in the closet. In the end i made my own using house pipe insulation and it looks good and seems functional. Used window seal tape to create the seal around the fan hole.
But double sided foam tape as well where the core touches the body as the original one had clearly disintegrated.

3. Install and pray

Photo below of the heater ready to be installed, tada !

Homemade camshaft handle

Pretty happy with my homemade camshaft handle for the spitfire.

Just a fat washer with 2 holes drilled for the bolts and rod welded onto it.